Ep 9: Wazwan at a wedding, and eating your way through Kashmir’s breads

Highway On My Podcast

In this episode of Highway On My Podcast, Rocky, Mayur, Abhinandan and Prashant reminisce about their travels through Jammu and Kashmir from back when Ladakh was a part of the state. The journey kicks off from a visit to a high altitude warfare training school to experience the harsh training jawans go through to survive the difficult terrains in Siachen and other high altitude posts. The gang talks about their visit to a winter training school in Gulmarg where Rocky was the subject of a diligent rescue by the army from beneath a three-foot cavity of snow. Rocky says he survived his 3-5 minutes under the snow thanks to his “veins of steel and dashing good looks”. The team moves to Pahalgam, where they stayed at a not-so-great hotel. However, they had a very special breakfast next to the gushing Lidder river, eating Lavasa, a type of Kashmiri bread, with hot tea in the crisp sunlight. Jammu and Kashmir is the land of breads, Mayur says, and they bake 13 to 14 different kinds. The group discusses how their search for an authentic Wazwan was unsatiated — right until Prashant had his first tryst with it at a Kashmiri wedding. Wazwan, Prashant explains, is a multi-course meal where four people share a huge plate of food and eat with their hands. As Rocky says, a typical Wazwan would include at least 25 dishes, and sometimes goes up to even 40 dishes. A typical Wazwan includes a Zafrani Murg, Safed Murg, Methi Maas, Tabakh Maas, and a lot more. Abhinandan describes the Khajuria hotel which, according to the whole gang, serves some of the best Rajma Chawal in the country. What makes it special is the dominance of ghee on the plate along with pomegranate chutney. Heading towards Srinagar, Abhinandan talks about the beautiful drive while Rocky talks about the famous Kashmir willow cricket bat that has helped him score runs over the years. In Srinagar, Mayur describes the dingy Mir Bakery where he tried the delicious Czochworu, a traditional bagel-like bread. Elsewhere, Prashant sampled a goat-tail preparation with Girda bread. Rocky talks about the Khayyam Chowk in Srinagar, which is a bustling street by day and a barbecue hub by night. Heading towards Ladakh, the group discusses a visit to a donkey sanctuary, the fine owner of the Upper Zing Zing Bar who provides food and shelter at minimal rates, the delicious mutton curry in Khosar, and Rocky’s tiff with a local. This and a lot more, only on Highway On My Plate.

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