Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling

Lattice Training Podcast

Player FM - Internet Radio Done Right

53 subscribers

הוסף לפני four שנים

תוכן מסופק על ידי Lattice Training. כל תוכן הפודקאסטים כולל פרקים, גרפיקה ותיאורי פודקאסטים מועלים ומסופקים ישירות על ידי Lattice Training או שותף פלטפורמת הפודקאסט שלהם. אם אתה מאמין שמישהו משתמש ביצירה שלך המוגנת בזכויות יוצרים ללא רשותך, אתה יכול לעקוב אחר התהליך המתואר כאן https://he.player.fm/legal.

Ask Grumpy

1
Helpless Hydrangea 6:24

לפני 14 ימים6:24

הפעל מאוחר יותר

רשימות

לייק

אהבתי

6:24

Grumpy helps a reader choose the best hydrangea for their hometown. Plus, Grumpy’s gripe of the week. You can find us online at southernliving.com/askgrumpy Ask Grumpy Credits: Steve Bender aka The Grumpy Gardener - Host Nellah McGough - Co-Host Krissy Tiglias - GM, Southern Living Lottie Leymarie - Executive Producer Michael Onufrak - Audio Engineer/Producer Isaac Nunn - Recording Tech Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

לפני שנה 12:42

MP3•בית הפרקים

Topics include:

Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.
Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.
Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.

This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

176 פרקים

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Lattice Training Podcast

Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling

Lattice Training Podcast

53 subscribers

published לפני שנה

שתפו

MP3•בית הפרקים

Topics include:

Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls.
Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them.
Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

176 פרקים

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Alle episoder

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Do Climbers Really Need to Lift Weights? | Part 1 1:23:26

לפני 25 ימים1:23:26

1:23:26

Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world . In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport. We’re talking to: Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams. Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset. Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset. Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development. You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport: Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep. In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season. We’ll cover: Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most) How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performance What female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength training Portable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-time The compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use them Why “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbing Whether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level. 🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the long The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Tom Randall Opens Up: Mindset, Burnout & Real Life 1:25:44

לפני 7 weeks1:25:44

1:25:44

In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth. Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs. Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear, this one’s for you. Key topics include: The psychology of projecting routes Why letting goals “brew” improves performance Pain tolerance and aging in climbing Balancing sponsorship with personal struggles Finding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing 1:20:33

לפני 10 weeks1:20:33

1:20:33

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana , one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science. From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally. Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive training How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped? 1:50:27

לפני 13 weeks1:50:27

1:50:27

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts , Andy Cave , Maddy Cope , Tom Herbert , and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad? The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense? Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself: 🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.” Key Takeaways: Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles. Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder? Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing. Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry? Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works? Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack. 👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉 https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet 52:43

לפני 16 weeks52:43

52:43

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects. Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines. Key Takeaways: Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance. Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them. Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects. Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock. Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene. 👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load 1:36:43

לפני 19 weeks1:36:43

1:36:43

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “ comfort crisis ” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth. Key Takeaways: Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference. Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start. The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond. Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training. Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance. 👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C 1:10:18

לפני 23 weeks1:10:18

1:10:18

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino. They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone. Key Takeaways Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges. Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime . The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains. How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle. Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12). Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope 1:12:06

לפני 26 weeks1:12:06

1:12:06

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT) . Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results. Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level. Key Takeaways: Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level! Links mentioned in the episode: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose 1:04:09

לפני 29 weeks1:04:09

1:04:09

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan . They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs. Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job , set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes. If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars. Key Takeaways: Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan How competition climbing skills apply to big walls Endurance training and preparation for big wall climbing Highlights from the upcoming film The Nose Job Join Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering 1:25:01

לפני 31 weeks1:25:01

1:25:01

In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world. Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed. In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane , and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard , crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds. With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents. Key Takeaways: Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world! And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood 10:11

לפני 36 weeks10:11

10:11

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting. Topics Covered: Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks. Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades. The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable. Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits. For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr 21:12

לפני 37 weeks21:12

21:12

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr , about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes. Key topics include: Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development. Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance. Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level. Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches. For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Breaking Barriers: Jen Wood's Historic First Ascent and Climbing Evolution 46:01

לפני 39 weeks46:01

46:01

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet— Vela Stivina in Croatia —sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits. Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures. Key Takeaways: Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence. Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment. Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing. Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies. Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals. Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles. Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits. Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding. Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence. Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching. Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Postpartum Power: Sarah Duvall on Climbing, Core Strength, and Recovery After Pregnancy 10:29

לפני 40 weeks10:29

10:29

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries. Key Topics Include: Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned. Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery. Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Climbing Through Time: Steve McClure on Aging, Injury Prevention, and Staying Motivated 36:32

לפני 41 weeks36:32

36:32

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference. Highlights from this Discussion Include: Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age. Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration. Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers. Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age. Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength. Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body. Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time. This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Road to the Olympics: Exclusive Interview with Ollie Torr 1:09:41

לפני 42 weeks1:09:41

1:09:41

In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitors—both in terms of personality traits and training approaches. Key Takeaways: The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medals The vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athlete’s journey to success The importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challenges How training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performance The significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest level The role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of training Don’t miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr. And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Being Your Best and Climbing in Your 50s with Steve McClure 1:00:19

לפני 43 weeks1:00:19

1:00:19

This is the second of a two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve McClure, one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss what it means to continue pushing boundaries and achieving peak performance in your 50s. Steve’s remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and big walling. He achieved his highest sport climbing grade at 46 years old, ‘Rainman’ 9b at Malham cove, defying expectations and setting an inspiring example for climbers everywhere. Topics Covered: Life in Decades: Steve reflects on how his life has evolved from his 20s and 30s into his 40s and 50s, including changes in family, work, and climbing. Changes and Challenges: The main changes and challenges Steve has experienced as he’s gotten older. Climbing Performance: Which aspects of performance continue to improve with age and which tend to stagnate or decline. Training Focus: How Steve works on maintaining and improving his performance. Balance Shift: How his focus has shifted between bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing over the years. Performance Energy: Where Steve currently focuses most of his performance energy. Effective Training: What training methods are working for Steve now and how have they changed. Common Mistakes: Common errors ageing climbers make and how to avoid them. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Climbing In Your 50s with Steve McClure 13:21

לפני 44 weeks13:21

13:21

In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with the legendary Steve McClure to discuss the secrets behind maintaining and performing into your 50s. Steve's storied career includes ground-breaking ascents and impressive repeats across all climbing disciplines, making him a unique authority on the subject. Highlights from this discussion include: Emphasising the importance of aligning training with specific climbing goals for optimal results. Understanding and addressing weaknesses Importance of top-quality trainers The significance of dedicating undistracted time to climbing and how full-time commitment can lead to substantial improvements. This 13min episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that delves into the evolution of climbing grades, training methods, and Steve’s unique approach to staying at the top of his game. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you to our listeners, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Evolution of Grades & Psychology of Climbing at the Limit with Steve McClure 51:11

לפני 45 weeks51:11

51:11

In this two-part episode, Tom Randall sits down with Steve Mcclure , one of the UK's most accomplished rock climbers, to discuss the evolution of climbing grades and the psychology of operating at the limit. Steve's remarkable career includes first ascents and repeats across bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing, and even big walling. His notable achievements include ‘Mutation’ 9a+/5.15a at Raven Tor which was upgraded from 9a/5.14d making it one of the first of this grade in the world, and the first ascent of ‘Rainman’ 9b/5.15b at Malham Cove, the first of this grade in the UK. Topics Covered: Operating at the Limit. Key Factors: What makes climbers excel or struggle at the limit? How climbing grades have changed over his career and the industry's influences. The roles of gear, training, psychology, and tactics in grade evolution. Elements of training that had the biggest effect on Steve’s performance. Predictions on where climbing training is headed and emerging opportunities. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Jana Švecová Projecting Stories 10:08

לפני 46 weeks10:08

10:08

In today's Podcast Highlight, we delve into the world of climbing with Jana Švecová , an accomplished climber currently taking on the challenging boulder problem Terra Nova, graded 8C+. Here are the key insights from our conversation: Approaching Goals with Determination: Jana shares her approach to climbing goals, emphasising the importance of focus and determination while enjoying the journey. Dealing with Doubts and Criticism: Despite facing doubts and criticism, Jana stays resilient and trusts in her abilities, showcasing the mental fortitude required in climbing. Training with Lattice Training: Jana discusses her experience training with Lattice Training and the remarkable improvements she's seen in her climbing performance. Exploring Climbing Opportunities: Jana encourages climbers to explore the diverse climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic, highlighting its unique challenges and rewards. This Podcast Highlight offers a glimpse into Jana's climbing journey and her passion for the sport. For the full conversation and more insights, listen to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15 . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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The Evolution of Training in Climbing - 10 Years of Lattice 1:19:30

לפני 47 weeks1:19:30

1:19:30

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with coach Maddie Cope to delve into the evolution of education and training in the climbing world. They discuss significant changes in three key areas: energy systems, female athletes, and strength and conditioning. Tom and Maddie share insights on how understanding and approaches have transformed over the years, leading to positive outcomes in climbing performance and training effectiveness. Main topics include: Energy Systems: Improved categorisation and understanding of energy systems have enhanced training effectiveness and load management. Female Athletes: Education on the menstrual cycle and female physiology has empowered female climbers, improving training structure and performance. Strength and Conditioning: Shifts in attitudes towards strength and conditioning now emphasise specificity, progressive overload, and injury prevention, with a focus on core and upper body strength. As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer: Get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Highlight: Flexibility Training for Climbers 26:15

לפני 48 weeks26:15

26:15

In today’s Lattice Podcast Highlight, hosts Maddy Cope and Tom Randall discuss Lattice's brand-new online flexibility training course. This course emphasises the importance of education and knowledge-sharing in climbing training, focusing on three main goals: Educating climbers on methods beyond passive static stretching Integrating flexibility training into overall training programs Helping climbers select exercises based on their flexibility level. The course provides step-by-step guides and assessments, to transform your approach to flexibility training and promote a sustainable, informed method. Highlights include: Training Frequency Menstrual Cycle Considerations Structured Approach Evolving Training Culture Active vs. Passive Stretching Importance of Education This episode is a highlight from a more in-depth conversation coming next week, covering additional insights on flexibility training, energy systems, and optimising performance for climbers.⁣ Special Offer Ends Soon, 1st July at Midnight: Get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat. Don’t miss this chance to elevate your training! https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Unlocking Flexibility: Q&A with Coaches Josh and Fran 1:05:24

לפני 49 weeks1:05:24

1:05:24

In this week’s podcast join Lattice Training coach, Josh Hadley , and fellow coach Fran Giacomozzi , as they answer your burning questions about flexibility training for climbers. Josh and Fran dive into how to improve flexibility, starting with practical tips on specific stretches, including how to utilise different types of stretches such as tempo. Key Topics Covered: Integrating flexibility with climbing At-home body weight exercises Essential strength training tips for climbers with hypermobility At-home body weight exercises, including upper body Managing soreness and dealing with injuries Strategies to maintain consistent stretching, including setting targets and measuring progress Join us for this comprehensive episode as Josh and Fran share their expert insights on flexibility training for climbers. Whether you’re struggling with hypermobility, looking to improve your range of motion, or seeking motivation to stretch consistently, this episode is packed with valuable advice and practical tips. If you enjoyed this episode, let us know! We’d love to do more Q&A sessions in the future. Plus, get 20% off the Flexibility Deep Dive course and our cork yoga Flex Mat - ends 1st July at Midnight. https://latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-course-bundle/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling 12:42

לפני 50 weeks12:42

12:42

In today's Lattice Podcast Highlight, coach Maddy Cope is joined by coach Billy Ridal to discuss the challenges and insecurities faced while climbing a difficult pitch on a big wall. They delve into the physical and mental efforts required to overcome insecurities and stick with the climb. Topics include: Facing Climbing Challenges: The physical and mental efforts needed to tackle difficult pitches on big walls. Recovering from Errors: The importance of making small errors and being able to recover from them. Confidence & Climbing: How confidence levels can vary between climbers during challenging ascents. This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that explores additional insights on managing nerves, maintaining focus, and handling time constraints during multi-pitch climbs. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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How to get back into climbing post-childbirth? 1:19:21

לפני 51 weeks1:19:21

1:19:21

In today's episode, host and coach, Maddy Cope, is joined by Dr. Sarah Duvall, a women's health and fitness specialist, to explore the intersection of climbing, fitness, and motherhood. Maddy brings her experience from coaching elite climbers post-partum such as Emily Harrington, and her passion for climbing to the conversation as she delves into Sarah's expertise. With over 15 years in the climbing industry and a background in coaching and climbing performance, Maddy is excited to learn from Sarah's wealth of experience. Together, they uncover practical strategies and exercises to enhance your climbing journey, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. From managing fear and anxiety to finding balance and prioritisation, this episode is packed with valuable insights: Topics include: Insights into Sarah's personal climbing journey postpartum and her impressive climbing achievements. The importance of breathing techniques and core strength for climbers, particularly during pregnancy and postpartum. Practical exercises and tips for improving breathing patterns and core engagement. Strategies for managing fear and anxiety when returning to climbing postpartum. Finding balance and prioritisation in different seasons of life. Don't miss out on this empowering conversation with Dr. Sarah Duvall. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more. Some links from Sarah to help support the podcast: Heel hooking hamstring strain strengthening prevention protocol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqvTjDcGZXQ&t=9s Advanced hip rotational exercises: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoC5YhmojGQ&t=37s Drawing in vs abdominal brace: https://youtu.be/WA-mFvykZ9k?si=hQVcYeG1TDquRDpK Rib cage mobility breathing exercise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1AkIPbnbfg Pushing vs pulling and core pressure: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B4ezNr6HXGu/?igsh=dHB1dHllbTB6dDBm The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Highlight: Exploring Endurance Through Psycho-Biological Theories 10:07

לפני 52 weeks10:07

10:07

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coach Cameron Hartley to explore two interesting theories. The ‘Central Governor Theory’, which suggests that a system in our brain signals when it's time to stop exercising to prevent potential harm, and the ‘ Psycho-Biological Theory ’, which integrates psychological constructs into our understanding of endurance performance. Highlights from this discussion include: Understanding exercise cessation: The role of the brain in regulating physical limits according to the Central Governor Theory. Integrating psychology in endurance: How the Psycho-Biological Theory emphasises the perception of effort and motivation. This episode is just a highlight from a more in-depth conversation that covers additional insights on endurance performance and how these theories can be applied in training. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Will Jana Švecová be the first woman to boulder 9A/V17? 57:24

לפני 1 year57:24

57:24

Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it’s currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it’s rumoured it could be 9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process. Topics include: Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress. Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her. Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges. Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles. Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It’s hidden gems! Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Highlight: Dealing with Post-Partum Criticism 11:40

לפני 1 year11:40

11:40

Today's highlight is on Emily Harrington's postpartum journey, including her rapid recovery and return to climbing and skiing. Emily faced criticism for her decision to resume physical activities soon after giving birth, but she stood firm in her belief that it's essential to do what feels right for oneself. Join us as Emily opens up about the challenges of navigating postpartum life, including the emotional and physical toll of breastfeeding and the pressures of body image. Topics Covered: Birth Experience and Early Postpartum Period Challenges of Body Image and Breastfeeding Return to Climbing and Skiing The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

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Training in your 60s: Jill Whittaker talks about her best year of climbing yet! 1:02:01

לפני 1 year1:02:01

1:02:01

In this episode, join host Tom Randall as he sits down with Jill Whitaker, she is a 61-year-old climber and mother of two accomplished pro climbers (Pete and Katy Whitaker). She is a testament to the power of perseverance and dedication! We will explore Jill's remarkable journey into climbing post-60 and her unique perspectives on training and climbing. Main topics: Jill's climbing background: From her early years in trad climbing to her rediscovery of the sport and return to climbing. Starting training and setting goals: How she juggled supporting her children’s climbing alongside her own training after a long break from the sport. Jill's training program: Insights into her training program, focusing on multiple areas including; pulling strength, finger strength, and maintaining power endurance and flexibility. Experiences with testing climbing performance: Jill's experiences with testing, and the positive feedback she received from friends. Climbing trip to Leonidio, Greece: Highlights from her recent climbing trip, where she achieved personal bests on some challenging routes. Reflections and Advice: Jill reflects on her climbing journey and the impact of structured training on her performance. Plus, advice for climbers of all ages seeking to improve.. Throughout the conversation, Jill's journey serves as a testament to the power of a positive attitude, perseverance, and the importance of having a structured training program. Do you want to start your training journey? As a thank you to our listeners, we have an exclusive offer, get 15% off our Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15 . Tune in to gain valuable insights and inspiration from Jill Whitaker's incredible and wholesome attitude towards the sport and life. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

Lattice Training Podcast

1
Highlight: Will Bosi climbing sport 9c or Adam Ondra bouldering 9A first? 8:25

לפני 1 year8:25

8:25

In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon. Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Overcoming Insecurity and Errors in Big Walling