Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts

Lattice Training Podcast

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53 subscribers

הוסף לפני four שנים

תוכן מסופק על ידי Lattice Training. כל תוכן הפודקאסטים כולל פרקים, גרפיקה ותיאורי פודקאסטים מועלים ומסופקים ישירות על ידי Lattice Training או שותף פלטפורמת הפודקאסט שלהם. אם אתה מאמין שמישהו משתמש ביצירה שלך המוגנת בזכויות יוצרים ללא רשותך, אתה יכול לעקוב אחר התהליך המתואר כאן https://he.player.fm/legal.

The Head Start: Embracing the Journey

1
Sweat and Resilience: Balancing Chronic Migraine with Fitness Goals 35:00

לפני 11 ימים35:00

הפעל מאוחר יותר

רשימות

לייק

אהבתי

35:00

The healing power of fitness goes far beyond physical benefits—for today’s guest, it’s a form of self-expression and a celebration of what the body can do. In this episode, host Nora McInerny sits down with fitness personality Ivylis Rivera, who shares her deeply personal journey of navigating life with Chronic Migraine while holding onto her passion for movement. Ivylis opens up about the struggle of staying active while facing the fear of triggering a headache or migraine attack and the resilience it takes to keep pushing forward—a resilience that carried her through the challenging journey of finding a Chronic Migraine treatment plan that worked for her. Join Nora and Ivylis as they explore the concept of “soft living,” a philosophy Ivylis embraces—staying active, listening to your body, and building trust in oneself. Click here for Product Information, including Boxed Warning and Medication Guide, or visit https://abbv.ie/prescribing_info See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.…

לפני שנה 1:09:58

MP3•בית הפרקים

In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.

Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting.

Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit.

פרקים

1. Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts (00:00:00)

2. [Ad] Tune in to the Patient Advocacy Voices Podcast today (00:09:08)

3. (Cont.) Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts (00:09:56)

177 פרקים

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts

Lattice Training Podcast

53 subscribers

published לפני שנה

שתפו

MP3•בית הפרקים

In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.

פרקים

1. Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts (00:00:00)

2. [Ad] Tune in to the Patient Advocacy Voices Podcast today (00:09:08)

3. (Cont.) Insights from the UK's Projecting Experts (00:09:56)

177 פרקים

#Sports #Lattice Training #Science #Fitness #Tom Randall

כל הפרקים

1
Flow and Climbing: More Than Just Effortless Control 44:40

לפני 1 hour44:40

44:40

In this in-depth episode, hosts Maddy Cope and coach Flo Tilley explore the intricate relationship between flow state, climbing performance, and mindset. Flow, often described as a state of effortless control and total absorption, is more than just a performance booster, it’s a transformative mental space where climbers feel deeply engaged and in sync with their challenges. Maddy and Flo dive into the science of flow, sharing practical techniques to cultivate this state by balancing skill and challenge, embracing playfulness, and applying mindfulness. Listeners will also learn how self-compassion plays a pivotal role in allowing climbers to quiet self-criticism and focus on being present. The hosts discuss how coaching can facilitate an individual’s exploration of their personal experiences, leading to breakthroughs in both mental strategies and climbing performance. Whether you’re battling mental barriers or looking to improve your performance, this conversation will help you tap into the flow state and find joy in your climbing journey. Takeaways: Flow is a natural experience that happens when skills and challenges align. Embracing playfulness and self-compassion can make it easier to access flow. Mindfulness helps slow down negative thoughts, creating space for peak performance. Coaching and self-reflection are powerful tools to enhance your mindset and approach to climbing. 🎧 Dive into this episode now and learn how to cultivate flow, conquer mental barriers, and bring more joy into your climbing. Link in bio! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Do Climbers Really Need to Lift Weights? | Part 1 1:23:26

לפני 28 ימים1:23:26

1:23:26

Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world . In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport. We’re talking to: Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams. Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset. Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset. Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development. You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport: Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep. In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season. We’ll cover: Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most) How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performance What female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength training Portable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-time The compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use them Why “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbing Whether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level. 🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the long The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

1
Tom Randall Opens Up: Mindset, Burnout & Real Life 1:25:44

לפני 7 weeks1:25:44

1:25:44

In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth. Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs. Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear, this one’s for you. Key topics include: The psychology of projecting routes Why letting goals “brew” improves performance Pain tolerance and aging in climbing Balancing sponsorship with personal struggles Finding joy in the process, not just the send Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

1
From Burnout to Breakthrough: Drew Ruana’s Analytical Approach to Climbing 1:20:33

לפני 10 weeks1:20:33

1:20:33

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana , one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science. From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally. Other topics covered: The role of structured vs. intuitive training How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success. 🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Creatine for Climbers: Game-Changer or Overhyped? 1:50:27

לפני 13 weeks1:50:27

1:50:27

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts , Andy Cave , Maddy Cope , Tom Herbert , and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad? The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense? Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself: 🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.” Key Takeaways: Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles. Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder? Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing. Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry? Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works? Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack. 👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉 https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

1
Excalibur’s First Repeat: Will Bosi’s Hardest Climb Yet 52:43

לפני 16 weeks52:43

52:43

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects. Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines. Key Takeaways: Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance. Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them. Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects. Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock. Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene. 👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

1
Climbing Stronger: Injury Management, Optimism, and the Power of Training Load 1:36:43

לפני 19 weeks1:36:43

1:36:43

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “ comfort crisis ” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth. Key Takeaways: Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference. Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start. The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond. Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training. Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance. 👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C 1:10:18

לפני 23 weeks1:10:18

1:10:18

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino. They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone. Key Takeaways Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges. Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime . The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains. How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle. Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12). Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope 1:12:06

לפני 26 weeks1:12:06

1:12:06

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT) . Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results. Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level. Key Takeaways: Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level! Links mentioned in the episode: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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How Two Boulderers Freed The Nose 1:04:09

לפני 29 weeks1:04:09

1:04:09

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan . They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs. Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job , set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes. If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars. Key Takeaways: Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan How competition climbing skills apply to big walls Endurance training and preparation for big wall climbing Highlights from the upcoming film The Nose Job Join Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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9A Mastery: How Will Bosi is Redefining Elite Bouldering 1:25:01

לפני 31 weeks1:25:01

1:25:01

In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world. Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed. In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane , and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard , crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds. With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents. Key Takeaways: Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world! And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Projecting Tactics for 8c and Beyond with Coach Jen Wood 10:11

לפני 36 weeks10:11

10:11

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting. Topics Covered: Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks. Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades. The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable. Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits. For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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Highlight: Training Like an Olympian with Coach Ollie Torr 21:12

לפני 37 weeks21:12

21:12

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr , about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes. Key topics include: Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development. Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance. Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level. Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches. For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms. As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

לפני 2 years6:41

6:41

You are on your climbing trip, and the weather takes a turn...well you are in for a treat because today's podcast is a special one! As Tom Randall and Anna Hazelnutt wait for the rain to go away, they got to ask each other some quick-fire questions. From favourite system board, to hang Vs no hang exercise preferences, this out-of-the-box podcast is here to get you thinking about your training favourites! And since it is the first one of its kind, let us know if you enjoy it. Plus if you have some questions you'd like to ask yourself, reach out to us on our social media platforms . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project . The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney , music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project .…

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