EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

The Power Company Climbing Podcast

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.

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EXPLORE FURTHER

Our entire movement skills resource library

Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode

Follow Rob on Instagram

Check out The Perception & Action Podcast

Check out Rob's books:

How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills

Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship

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Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

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CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:00) Guest Introduction

(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories

(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides

(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods

(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing

(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards

(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach

(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching

(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example

(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing

(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling

(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders

(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?

(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill

(40:45) Wrap Up